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		<title><![CDATA[Tube Amp Forum: The Ultimate Tone - Preamp Mods & Design]]></title>
		<link>https://theultimatetone.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Tube Amp Forum: The Ultimate Tone - https://theultimatetone.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 May 2026 12:48:01 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Friedman/Suhr PPIMV]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Friedman-Suhr-PPIMV</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 17 Feb 2025 09:58:33 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=330">physics</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Friedman-Suhr-PPIMV</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the "new" master volume that Friedman and Suhr amps seem to be using, as seen on the Plex and SL68 amps. Bias grid-leaks are replaced with 2M2 resistors, and each resistor gets one gang of a dual gang pot (each gang wired as a rheostat) in parallel with it. As you turn down the pot, you reduce the grid-leak value and load down the phase inverter, or such is my current understanding.<br />
<br />
I'll post a sketch after some sleep.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
          physics<br />
<br />
Edit: sketch<br />

<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/image.png" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=232" target="_blank" title="">20250217_132837.jpg</a> (Size: 1.26 MB / Downloads: 41)
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
I was wondering if anyone had any thoughts on the "new" master volume that Friedman and Suhr amps seem to be using, as seen on the Plex and SL68 amps. Bias grid-leaks are replaced with 2M2 resistors, and each resistor gets one gang of a dual gang pot (each gang wired as a rheostat) in parallel with it. As you turn down the pot, you reduce the grid-leak value and load down the phase inverter, or such is my current understanding.<br />
<br />
I'll post a sketch after some sleep.<br />
<br />
Thanks,<br />
          physics<br />
<br />
Edit: sketch<br />

<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/image.png" title="JPG Image" border="0" alt=".jpg" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=232" target="_blank" title="">20250217_132837.jpg</a> (Size: 1.26 MB / Downloads: 41)
]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Am I miss something about this FX Loop Design?]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Am-I-miss-something-about-this-FX-Loop-Design</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 14 Feb 2025 16:07:39 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=54">makinrose</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Am-I-miss-something-about-this-FX-Loop-Design</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Recently I've seen several amps recently that have serial fx loops that the sends are plate fed with steep attenuation rather than a buffered send. Phaez's Daisycutter (the builder has a video talking about the pre-amp design) and Suhr's Badger both use that type of loop.   It all seems like very poor situation for feeding long cables and interfacing with effects.  TUT's chapter on FX loops is really clear on that point as are many other sources.   Am I missing something? Is there a reason a designer would elect to do it that way?   Both of those builders are experienced....<br />
<br />
Here's a schematic someone posted for the Badger: <a href="https://emprizeamps.com/schematics/suhr_badger_schematic.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">suhr_badger_schematic.pdf</a>]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey everyone! Recently I've seen several amps recently that have serial fx loops that the sends are plate fed with steep attenuation rather than a buffered send. Phaez's Daisycutter (the builder has a video talking about the pre-amp design) and Suhr's Badger both use that type of loop.   It all seems like very poor situation for feeding long cables and interfacing with effects.  TUT's chapter on FX loops is really clear on that point as are many other sources.   Am I missing something? Is there a reason a designer would elect to do it that way?   Both of those builders are experienced....<br />
<br />
Here's a schematic someone posted for the Badger: <a href="https://emprizeamps.com/schematics/suhr_badger_schematic.pdf" target="_blank" rel="noopener" class="mycode_url">suhr_badger_schematic.pdf</a>]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[D-PRE BUILD ( mini marshmallow preamp)]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-D-PRE-BUILD-mini-marshmallow-preamp</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 21 Feb 2024 19:14:04 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=410">coco</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-D-PRE-BUILD-mini-marshmallow-preamp</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Looking to share build experiences. I am about to start one and connect it to a low watt amp.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Looking to share build experiences. I am about to start one and connect it to a low watt amp.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Has anyone had experience with the Garnet "Stinger" circuit?]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Has-anyone-had-experience-with-the-Garnet-Stinger-circuit</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 15 Dec 2023 15:27:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=54">makinrose</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Has-anyone-had-experience-with-the-Garnet-Stinger-circuit</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[I recently was looking at some Garnet schematics and came across the built-in fuzz/distortion circuit they called the "Stinger".  Has anyone player an amp with this feature?  How does it sound?  Being in the US I've never seen a Garnet in person. <br />
<br />
 The design is intriguingly simple---a parallel input gain stage that uses a 6AN8 with the signal going into the pentode section of the tube which is grid-leak biased and direct coupled into the triode section.  The sound is then mixed into the parallel normal input stage's output.   The one thing I'm not clear on is that since the fuzz/distortion it goes through two gain stages wouldn't be out of phase with the normal input stage's signal?<br />
<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/pdf.png" title="Adobe Acrobat PDF" border="0" alt=".pdf" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=166" target="_blank" title="">garnet_l90_b90_rebel.pdf</a> (Size: 438 KB / Downloads: 4)
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[I recently was looking at some Garnet schematics and came across the built-in fuzz/distortion circuit they called the "Stinger".  Has anyone player an amp with this feature?  How does it sound?  Being in the US I've never seen a Garnet in person. <br />
<br />
 The design is intriguingly simple---a parallel input gain stage that uses a 6AN8 with the signal going into the pentode section of the tube which is grid-leak biased and direct coupled into the triode section.  The sound is then mixed into the parallel normal input stage's output.   The one thing I'm not clear on is that since the fuzz/distortion it goes through two gain stages wouldn't be out of phase with the normal input stage's signal?<br />
<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/pdf.png" title="Adobe Acrobat PDF" border="0" alt=".pdf" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=166" target="_blank" title="">garnet_l90_b90_rebel.pdf</a> (Size: 438 KB / Downloads: 4)
]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[6v6 preamp]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-6v6-preamp</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 26 Jun 2023 23:17:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=370">mooreamps</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-6v6-preamp</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[6v6 preamp<br />
<br />
My next project.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[6v6 preamp<br />
<br />
My next project.]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Load Line Assistance Needed]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Load-Line-Assistance-Needed</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 10 Nov 2022 13:57:28 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=336">dtbradio</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Load-Line-Assistance-Needed</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Greetings!<br />
<br />
This is my first post on this forum. Fitting for a tube noob, lol! <br />
<br />
For my first question/problem, I need to be pointed to clear and concise info on how to plot a loadline for a tube. In particular, I have 12AX7, 12AU7, 12AZ7, 6K6, and 6V6 tubes around some of which I plan on building a guitar amp. I've been to several websites and done Google searches, but haven't found anything that truly cleared up the mud with regards to plotting load lines. My first BIG question is plate voltage. Do you use the unloaded B+, or measure it under a DC tube load?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any helpful replies!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Greetings!<br />
<br />
This is my first post on this forum. Fitting for a tube noob, lol! <br />
<br />
For my first question/problem, I need to be pointed to clear and concise info on how to plot a loadline for a tube. In particular, I have 12AX7, 12AU7, 12AZ7, 6K6, and 6V6 tubes around some of which I plan on building a guitar amp. I've been to several websites and done Google searches, but haven't found anything that truly cleared up the mud with regards to plotting load lines. My first BIG question is plate voltage. Do you use the unloaded B+, or measure it under a DC tube load?<br />
<br />
Thanks in advance for any helpful replies!]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Troubleshooting 50Hz noise in phase inverter]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Troubleshooting-50Hz-noise-in-phase-inverter</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 29 Jan 2022 13:12:51 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=73">Tomislaw</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Troubleshooting-50Hz-noise-in-phase-inverter</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello, <br />
<br />
I've just finished troubleshooting a 1972 Marshall 2040 Artiste which intially didn't seem to need much attention apart from a complete recap and bias adjustment. While I was testing it I thought the hum coming from it was a bit too noticeable for my taste so I decided to get rid of it. It's taken quite a bit of detective work to fix something that seemed like a minor problem. I hope this will help others trying to fix the same problem in their amps as you're not getting much information trying to google for PI noise issues.<br />
<br />
I knew I would end up rearranging ground connections entirely, but I decided to begin with elevating heaters. That immediately killed all hum coming from both preamps, but there was still some leftover 50Hz hum which sounded like a ground loop. I ripped all ground connections up and rewired everything back in correct order, but surprisingly that didn't do much to eliminate the hum, which wasn't already too distracting, but I wanted to find out what was causing it. <br />
<br />
I narrowed it down to the phase inverter - grounding the input capacitor would kill the hum. At this point I knew it wasn't a ground loop because I disconnected everything before the PI including the B+ to preamps and reverb and that didn't change a thing. I quickly discovered that the first grid wire was picking up a lot of AC noise as untwisted (!) heavy gauge heater wires from the transformer were laid right beside the PI tube which is located on the other side of power tubes. <br />
<br />
Installing a piece of shielded cable on the grid connection helped but only a little bit. I disconnected heater wires, twisted them together and soldered them back, moving them as far from V4 as possible as well. I hoped that would be the end of the battle, but there was still some 50Hz hum in the output! <br />
<br />
I realized that it must be the AC wires on the voltage selector which is very close to the PI circuit. I disconnected all wires, made a fixed connection on the 230V tap and moved everything away from the V4 - and that was it. The hum was now completely gone, but I found it difficult to reconnect the voltage switch. I tried putting the whole bunch of wires inside a braided shield, but that wasn't enough to keep the AC interference away from the PI. I guess installing a shielding plate below the switch would fix the problem nicely, but since it's unlikely that the amp owner will ever use other voltage than 230V, I left the voltage switch unconnected and zip tied all cables away from V4. Now the amp is dead silent. <br />
<br />
There was also a bit of hum inside the reverb circuit and it was entirely caused by RCA jack wires touching heater wires! Another jarring lead dress mistake in an old Marshall. Fortunately this was very easy to fix. <br />
<br />
Tomi]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello, <br />
<br />
I've just finished troubleshooting a 1972 Marshall 2040 Artiste which intially didn't seem to need much attention apart from a complete recap and bias adjustment. While I was testing it I thought the hum coming from it was a bit too noticeable for my taste so I decided to get rid of it. It's taken quite a bit of detective work to fix something that seemed like a minor problem. I hope this will help others trying to fix the same problem in their amps as you're not getting much information trying to google for PI noise issues.<br />
<br />
I knew I would end up rearranging ground connections entirely, but I decided to begin with elevating heaters. That immediately killed all hum coming from both preamps, but there was still some leftover 50Hz hum which sounded like a ground loop. I ripped all ground connections up and rewired everything back in correct order, but surprisingly that didn't do much to eliminate the hum, which wasn't already too distracting, but I wanted to find out what was causing it. <br />
<br />
I narrowed it down to the phase inverter - grounding the input capacitor would kill the hum. At this point I knew it wasn't a ground loop because I disconnected everything before the PI including the B+ to preamps and reverb and that didn't change a thing. I quickly discovered that the first grid wire was picking up a lot of AC noise as untwisted (!) heavy gauge heater wires from the transformer were laid right beside the PI tube which is located on the other side of power tubes. <br />
<br />
Installing a piece of shielded cable on the grid connection helped but only a little bit. I disconnected heater wires, twisted them together and soldered them back, moving them as far from V4 as possible as well. I hoped that would be the end of the battle, but there was still some 50Hz hum in the output! <br />
<br />
I realized that it must be the AC wires on the voltage selector which is very close to the PI circuit. I disconnected all wires, made a fixed connection on the 230V tap and moved everything away from the V4 - and that was it. The hum was now completely gone, but I found it difficult to reconnect the voltage switch. I tried putting the whole bunch of wires inside a braided shield, but that wasn't enough to keep the AC interference away from the PI. I guess installing a shielding plate below the switch would fix the problem nicely, but since it's unlikely that the amp owner will ever use other voltage than 230V, I left the voltage switch unconnected and zip tied all cables away from V4. Now the amp is dead silent. <br />
<br />
There was also a bit of hum inside the reverb circuit and it was entirely caused by RCA jack wires touching heater wires! Another jarring lead dress mistake in an old Marshall. Fortunately this was very easy to fix. <br />
<br />
Tomi]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Submini tubes]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Submini-tubes</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 24 Dec 2021 15:25:46 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=139">SGillespie</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Submini-tubes</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey there, <br />
I'm a pedal builder who is looking to get into using tubes (specifically subminiature tubes)for pedals and hopefully preamps eventually. I know a fair amount about pedal design but the use of tubes is not something that I come across very often and know next to nothing about how to begin. Does anyone have experience with designing with submini tubes or know where I can go to learn?<br />
Cheers <br />
Steve]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey there, <br />
I'm a pedal builder who is looking to get into using tubes (specifically subminiature tubes)for pedals and hopefully preamps eventually. I know a fair amount about pedal design but the use of tubes is not something that I come across very often and know next to nothing about how to begin. Does anyone have experience with designing with submini tubes or know where I can go to learn?<br />
Cheers <br />
Steve]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Suggestions for BJT Tremolo Oscillator]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Suggestions-for-BJT-Tremolo-Oscillator</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Aug 2021 18:45:00 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=54">makinrose</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Suggestions-for-BJT-Tremolo-Oscillator</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey everyone I'm looking for a good BJT oscillator circuit to drive a LED LDR or Jftet. I'd prefer the LDR.... I've used the London Power Wide Range Tremolo in a  tube amp and like it but since all my stuff uses eyelet boards I'd like to find a BJT circuit to do something similar. I find discrete components easier to wire up.  There seems like a multitude of circuits out there. Does anyone know of a good design to start off of? I figure I can derive the voltage from the high voltage supply and use a Zener to get the right voltages.  Thanks for the help!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hey everyone I'm looking for a good BJT oscillator circuit to drive a LED LDR or Jftet. I'd prefer the LDR.... I've used the London Power Wide Range Tremolo in a  tube amp and like it but since all my stuff uses eyelet boards I'd like to find a BJT circuit to do something similar. I find discrete components easier to wire up.  There seems like a multitude of circuits out there. Does anyone know of a good design to start off of? I figure I can derive the voltage from the high voltage supply and use a Zener to get the right voltages.  Thanks for the help!]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Power Resistors in kits]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Power-Resistors-in-kits</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2021 07:53:55 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=183">Strelok</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Power-Resistors-in-kits</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all Tuberionatians!<br />
<br />
<br />
I noticed that in the kits there are no Power Resistors anymore for local decoupling.<br />
<br />
<br />
Or so it seems.<br />
Maybe they are rated 1 Watt and I just don't see it.<br />
<br />
<br />
In earlier times it was advised to raise them above the PCB or circuit card, but I don't see that notice anymore.<br />
Have the resistors become so much cooler?<br />
<br />
<br />
Also, it was always advised to make a shape with the legs instead of just keeping them straight.<br />
I always wondered what that is about.<br />
I can think of only one scenario:<br />
The Power Resistor gets very, I mean extremely hot in case of some failure.<br />
It melts, no it boils the solder and threatens to do a "melt down": sink down the solder holes onto the board.<br />
There it could make a short if it touches another component on the way down.<br />
Therefore the legs are bent, so that it can not lower itself onto the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
Kind regards,<br />
<br />
Eric-Jan]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all Tuberionatians!<br />
<br />
<br />
I noticed that in the kits there are no Power Resistors anymore for local decoupling.<br />
<br />
<br />
Or so it seems.<br />
Maybe they are rated 1 Watt and I just don't see it.<br />
<br />
<br />
In earlier times it was advised to raise them above the PCB or circuit card, but I don't see that notice anymore.<br />
Have the resistors become so much cooler?<br />
<br />
<br />
Also, it was always advised to make a shape with the legs instead of just keeping them straight.<br />
I always wondered what that is about.<br />
I can think of only one scenario:<br />
The Power Resistor gets very, I mean extremely hot in case of some failure.<br />
It melts, no it boils the solder and threatens to do a "melt down": sink down the solder holes onto the board.<br />
There it could make a short if it touches another component on the way down.<br />
Therefore the legs are bent, so that it can not lower itself onto the board.<br />
<br />
<br />
Kind regards,<br />
<br />
Eric-Jan]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[FX Loop Bypass - Signal Loss]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-FX-Loop-Bypass-Signal-Loss</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 25 Apr 2021 07:56:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=52">NGW</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-FX-Loop-Bypass-Signal-Loss</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi Fellow TUT Followers,<br />
<br />
Attached is a schematic showing the FX Loop I used in an amp that I built for a local pro. (The preamp shown is not in his amp, which has switchable Clean and Drive modes.)<br />
He wanted a serial loop, for a Delay pedal, followed by a Reverb pedal (fitted inside the cab), instead of built in reverb and a panel knob to control the reverb level.<br />
I achieved this with the attached circuit.<br />
<br />
He recently asked if I could make a foot switchable bypass for the serial loop so he could mount his Delay pedal in the cab also and then just use the amp foot switch box, instead of adding the delay pedal out front. I was able to do this by repurposing one foot switch's function that he didn't use and changing that relay's wiring, as shown and adding a panel switch, as well.<br />
Initially I had it wired so that the loop return was switched in and out, but that meant I lost the Delay Tails.<br />
I rewired it to switch the send in and out, which retained the tails, but the Delay pedal output Z is loading down the bypass signal and there is a volume drop; it works great with no pedal, which is not the object of the exercise.<br />
<br />
I would like to find a way to have the Tails and no signal loss in bypass, but I am struggling to find a solution.<br />
If any of you can suggest a suitable way to fix this, I will be very grateful. Otherwise I will change back to loop return switching and he will have no Delay Tails when bypassing the loop.<br />
<br />
Cheers, Noel<br />
<br />

<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/pdf.png" title="Adobe Acrobat PDF" border="0" alt=".pdf" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=86" target="_blank" title="">40C110 - FX Loop Bypass. 2302021.pdf</a> (Size: 709.88 KB / Downloads: 8)
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi Fellow TUT Followers,<br />
<br />
Attached is a schematic showing the FX Loop I used in an amp that I built for a local pro. (The preamp shown is not in his amp, which has switchable Clean and Drive modes.)<br />
He wanted a serial loop, for a Delay pedal, followed by a Reverb pedal (fitted inside the cab), instead of built in reverb and a panel knob to control the reverb level.<br />
I achieved this with the attached circuit.<br />
<br />
He recently asked if I could make a foot switchable bypass for the serial loop so he could mount his Delay pedal in the cab also and then just use the amp foot switch box, instead of adding the delay pedal out front. I was able to do this by repurposing one foot switch's function that he didn't use and changing that relay's wiring, as shown and adding a panel switch, as well.<br />
Initially I had it wired so that the loop return was switched in and out, but that meant I lost the Delay Tails.<br />
I rewired it to switch the send in and out, which retained the tails, but the Delay pedal output Z is loading down the bypass signal and there is a volume drop; it works great with no pedal, which is not the object of the exercise.<br />
<br />
I would like to find a way to have the Tails and no signal loss in bypass, but I am struggling to find a solution.<br />
If any of you can suggest a suitable way to fix this, I will be very grateful. Otherwise I will change back to loop return switching and he will have no Delay Tails when bypassing the loop.<br />
<br />
Cheers, Noel<br />
<br />

<br />
<img src="https://theultimatetone.com/images/attachtypes/pdf.png" title="Adobe Acrobat PDF" border="0" alt=".pdf" />
&nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="attachment.php?aid=86" target="_blank" title="">40C110 - FX Loop Bypass. 2302021.pdf</a> (Size: 709.88 KB / Downloads: 8)
]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Not So Subtle Sag]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Not-So-Subtle-Sag</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 15 Apr 2021 11:24:50 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=183">Strelok</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Not-So-Subtle-Sag</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all you FireBottle lovers!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
FireBottle... who came up with that name?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A long time ago I built a Sustainor Preamp.<br />
Like I said so many times: this preamp rocks!<br />
<br />
<br />
I tried new tubes in it, and they were doing a "new tube" thing.<br />
<br />
They gave a sag that was *not* subtle!<br />
The harder I hit the strings, the slower the sound came up.<br />
<br />
It was fantastic!<br />
After a while the effect was gone though.<br />
<br />
As far as I have seen, the SUS kit works time based, there are a few resistors that set the time.<br />
Can it do this kind of sag?<br />
<br />
<br />
I have an EHX "Attack Decay", that one works by peaks.<br />
When it detects a peak the preset attack and decay times are applied, so that is only based on preset times.<br />
<br />
Fun Fact:<br />
This thing can do something I have not seen anywhere else.<br />
If you apply "poly mode" each note that you play gets its own attack and decay, even if you play multiple notes and let them ring!<br />
I have no idea how they did this.<br />
You would have to sample each note seperately as they are played and then play back a sample with the correct envelope.<br />
<br />
But how can you extract the different notes?<br />
<br />
Nice riddle to think about, but no solution available!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all you FireBottle lovers!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
FireBottle... who came up with that name?<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
A long time ago I built a Sustainor Preamp.<br />
Like I said so many times: this preamp rocks!<br />
<br />
<br />
I tried new tubes in it, and they were doing a "new tube" thing.<br />
<br />
They gave a sag that was *not* subtle!<br />
The harder I hit the strings, the slower the sound came up.<br />
<br />
It was fantastic!<br />
After a while the effect was gone though.<br />
<br />
As far as I have seen, the SUS kit works time based, there are a few resistors that set the time.<br />
Can it do this kind of sag?<br />
<br />
<br />
I have an EHX "Attack Decay", that one works by peaks.<br />
When it detects a peak the preset attack and decay times are applied, so that is only based on preset times.<br />
<br />
Fun Fact:<br />
This thing can do something I have not seen anywhere else.<br />
If you apply "poly mode" each note that you play gets its own attack and decay, even if you play multiple notes and let them ring!<br />
I have no idea how they did this.<br />
You would have to sample each note seperately as they are played and then play back a sample with the correct envelope.<br />
<br />
But how can you extract the different notes?<br />
<br />
Nice riddle to think about, but no solution available!<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Which cable?]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Which-cable</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 12 Apr 2021 17:13:52 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=183">Strelok</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Which-cable</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hello Tube Doctors!<br />
<br />
<br />
I'm in the market for buying soms shielded cable.<br />
I used Doug Hoffmans cable, but now I wnat to order at Mouser with the rest of the parts.<br />
<br />
I can't find good cable there, what do you folks use?<br />
<br />
<br />
Warm regards,<br />
<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello Tube Doctors!<br />
<br />
<br />
I'm in the market for buying soms shielded cable.<br />
I used Doug Hoffmans cable, but now I wnat to order at Mouser with the rest of the parts.<br />
<br />
I can't find good cable there, what do you folks use?<br />
<br />
<br />
Warm regards,<br />
<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Stereo Reverb as in TUT2]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Stereo-Reverb-as-in-TUT2</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 28 Mar 2021 13:32:29 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=183">Strelok</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Stereo-Reverb-as-in-TUT2</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all!<br />
<br />
<br />
I'd like to build the Stereo Reverb as in TUT2.<br />
Has anyone done that?<br />
<br />
Which Reverb Block would be best, the one in the LP Standard or the Standalone Reverb Kit?<br />
<br />
<br />
Greetings,<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all!<br />
<br />
<br />
I'd like to build the Stereo Reverb as in TUT2.<br />
Has anyone done that?<br />
<br />
Which Reverb Block would be best, the one in the LP Standard or the Standalone Reverb Kit?<br />
<br />
<br />
Greetings,<br />
<br />
Strelok]]></content:encoded>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[EL34 glowing internally with signal...]]></title>
			<link>https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-EL34-glowing-internally-with-signal</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 03 Mar 2021 22:58:16 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://theultimatetone.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=112">liquidair</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-EL34-glowing-internally-with-signal</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi all, I have a project where I'm using EL34s (new Mullards) and I noticed that as I played I could see an orange glow through the hole in the plates that would pulse with the music. Is that normal? This amp has a b+ around 400-410 at idle and I have 1k 10W resistors on the screens (drawing ~5mA at idle), and I'm biased rather cool at 32mA. I don't really think I'm pushing it, but the screen resistors are getting pretty darn hot. I had another EL34 design with a higher B+ and 1k 7W screen resistors that I remember being able to touch after an hour of playing with the EL34's at max. Is there something I should check or am I just being a worry wart? Thank you all!!<br />
<br />
(Sorry if this is in the wrong place, I didn't see a "Power Amp" section of the forum!)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi all, I have a project where I'm using EL34s (new Mullards) and I noticed that as I played I could see an orange glow through the hole in the plates that would pulse with the music. Is that normal? This amp has a b+ around 400-410 at idle and I have 1k 10W resistors on the screens (drawing ~5mA at idle), and I'm biased rather cool at 32mA. I don't really think I'm pushing it, but the screen resistors are getting pretty darn hot. I had another EL34 design with a higher B+ and 1k 7W screen resistors that I remember being able to touch after an hour of playing with the EL34's at max. Is there something I should check or am I just being a worry wart? Thank you all!!<br />
<br />
(Sorry if this is in the wrong place, I didn't see a "Power Amp" section of the forum!)]]></content:encoded>
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