https://theultimatetone.com/ Sun, 26 Jul 2026 07:02:27 +0000 MyBB https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Suitable-Shoulder-Washer-Flat-Washer Tue, 05 Mar 2024 18:23:31 +0000 ZeusMC]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Suitable-Shoulder-Washer-Flat-Washer Guitar input jack, fitting in a 0.118 inch chassis. All I can find is the  Switchcraft, S1029 which won't do.
Is there anything available?
Cheers.]]> Guitar input jack, fitting in a 0.118 inch chassis. All I can find is the  Switchcraft, S1029 which won't do.
Is there anything available?
Cheers.]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wiring-to-potentiometer Fri, 02 Jun 2023 15:29:24 +0000 Champ81]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wiring-to-potentiometer https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Shared-Ground-Capacitor-wiring Sun, 21 May 2023 15:45:22 +0000 Champ81]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Shared-Ground-Capacitor-wiring
Here we are having the may 24 weekend. Hope all are enjoying it.
I hope this is the correct thread considering it feels with wiring.
I am building a modulus amp kit and they have a shared ground for a 33uf cap circled in red.  Still learning so I'd like to ask.  At the moment the amp has a very low frequency hum with the master volume pot at zero and it goes away as you turn it to max. So I tried everything to ground the way it describes in TUT. I'm sure that's not the issue. But.. after all possible ways I pulled out the preamp tubes to see if it goes away. Still there. The low frequency hum (I'm guessing 60HZ) is definitely from the power section somewhere. 
Also I tried reorienting the output transformer and moving it away but still there. 

Now the only culprit I could think ofnow is this shared 33uf capacitor. Is it still a good idea and good practice to just get two 33uf caps and seperate their respective grounding? Or in this case would it not matter so much in terms of reducing noise.

  Screenshot_20230521_112627_Gallery.jpg (Size: 928.01 KB / Downloads: 52) ]]>
Here we are having the may 24 weekend. Hope all are enjoying it.
I hope this is the correct thread considering it feels with wiring.
I am building a modulus amp kit and they have a shared ground for a 33uf cap circled in red.  Still learning so I'd like to ask.  At the moment the amp has a very low frequency hum with the master volume pot at zero and it goes away as you turn it to max. So I tried everything to ground the way it describes in TUT. I'm sure that's not the issue. But.. after all possible ways I pulled out the preamp tubes to see if it goes away. Still there. The low frequency hum (I'm guessing 60HZ) is definitely from the power section somewhere. 
Also I tried reorienting the output transformer and moving it away but still there. 

Now the only culprit I could think ofnow is this shared 33uf capacitor. Is it still a good idea and good practice to just get two 33uf caps and seperate their respective grounding? Or in this case would it not matter so much in terms of reducing noise.

  Screenshot_20230521_112627_Gallery.jpg (Size: 928.01 KB / Downloads: 52) ]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Heater-Wiring-AWG2x Sat, 17 Sep 2022 09:37:07 +0000 flopoeko]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Heater-Wiring-AWG2x

A bit of contextual information:

I have to wire heaters in a 18W-TMB type cirquit (3xECC83, EZ81, 2xEL84) and for the preamp-tubes a switch will be employed to change pins 4/5/9 to accomodate equivalent valves with a different pinout.

Since two wires have to go on/in some lugs of each switch I was wondering if I can use AWG24 wire to make it less cramped and still be safe in terms of current rating or other issues. The specific wire I have readily at hand and plan to use in this instance is

WEICO 3024-TC AWG24 top-coated hookup-wire (UL1007, UL1569, CSA TR-64, 300V, -40 to 105°C).

Any thoughts and comments? And feel free to write what you think about wire rating and general properties for wiring tube amps.

Cheers,

Florian]]>

A bit of contextual information:

I have to wire heaters in a 18W-TMB type cirquit (3xECC83, EZ81, 2xEL84) and for the preamp-tubes a switch will be employed to change pins 4/5/9 to accomodate equivalent valves with a different pinout.

Since two wires have to go on/in some lugs of each switch I was wondering if I can use AWG24 wire to make it less cramped and still be safe in terms of current rating or other issues. The specific wire I have readily at hand and plan to use in this instance is

WEICO 3024-TC AWG24 top-coated hookup-wire (UL1007, UL1569, CSA TR-64, 300V, -40 to 105°C).

Any thoughts and comments? And feel free to write what you think about wire rating and general properties for wiring tube amps.

Cheers,

Florian]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Correct-Size-Knock-Out-Hole-Punches Sun, 30 Jan 2022 18:52:53 +0000 ZeusMC]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Correct-Size-Knock-Out-Hole-Punches What would be the correct size for a  12AX7  B9A tube socket, a K8A  6V6 octal socket and  if different what might be required for rectifier sockets?
Thanks.]]> What would be the correct size for a  12AX7  B9A tube socket, a K8A  6V6 octal socket and  if different what might be required for rectifier sockets?
Thanks.]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wiring-and-PCBs Thu, 08 Jul 2021 16:00:10 +0000 K O'Connor]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wiring-and-PCBs
I just posted the text below in a different thread but thought it should be here for more general viewing.

In the modern age of computerised PCB layout and overall design, it is very easy to eliminate all the wiring or very nearly so, but this means the whole amp or product is on one board. The chassis must have one panel that can be removed if one is to install or remove the card. It all looks good on the monitor and the assembly is quick, plus the board is complete so it can be tested prior to mounting in the chassis. Even though I am aware of the trap and know better, I have done this myself.

Wiring is the repair person's salvation provided it is done carefully.PCBs on the front panel, PCBs on the rear panel, maybe other PCBs for the PSU etc, wired to each other with generous lead lengths - service loops as they are historically known - allow smaller portions of circuitry to be dealt with more easily. It may end up that to replace a panel pot, say, one has to free all the front panel pots, but if this means you do not also have to free up the rear panel items or other things, then it is one step closer to being a breeze to service. Breaking the control and jack boards into yet smaller pieces makes it quicker still.

The other thing having some wiring does for you is to improve the reliability with regard to mechanical strain due to flexure of the chassis. Typically the pots, jacks and switches secure the PCB to the panel and there can be strain on the solder connections depending on how much overall support there is for the card. A further benefit to having some wiring and smaller PCBs is that each is mechanically only related to a small part of the chassis and therefore measurement and placement is less critical and tolerances of the chassis bends and dimensions is less critical. The reality is that everything is designed at once in the same software, so mechanical alignment will be as good as the chassis fabrication allows.

In the case of the PA66, the PCB is supported by metal standoffs, four around each power tube and three on the front-end. The tube socket leads are bent over for mechanical integrity prior to soldering. The preamp PCBs are similar with enough mounting positions over the length of the board. This is actually quite robust provided one takes the normal amount of care during tube insertion and extraction.]]>
I just posted the text below in a different thread but thought it should be here for more general viewing.

In the modern age of computerised PCB layout and overall design, it is very easy to eliminate all the wiring or very nearly so, but this means the whole amp or product is on one board. The chassis must have one panel that can be removed if one is to install or remove the card. It all looks good on the monitor and the assembly is quick, plus the board is complete so it can be tested prior to mounting in the chassis. Even though I am aware of the trap and know better, I have done this myself.

Wiring is the repair person's salvation provided it is done carefully.PCBs on the front panel, PCBs on the rear panel, maybe other PCBs for the PSU etc, wired to each other with generous lead lengths - service loops as they are historically known - allow smaller portions of circuitry to be dealt with more easily. It may end up that to replace a panel pot, say, one has to free all the front panel pots, but if this means you do not also have to free up the rear panel items or other things, then it is one step closer to being a breeze to service. Breaking the control and jack boards into yet smaller pieces makes it quicker still.

The other thing having some wiring does for you is to improve the reliability with regard to mechanical strain due to flexure of the chassis. Typically the pots, jacks and switches secure the PCB to the panel and there can be strain on the solder connections depending on how much overall support there is for the card. A further benefit to having some wiring and smaller PCBs is that each is mechanically only related to a small part of the chassis and therefore measurement and placement is less critical and tolerances of the chassis bends and dimensions is less critical. The reality is that everything is designed at once in the same software, so mechanical alignment will be as good as the chassis fabrication allows.

In the case of the PA66, the PCB is supported by metal standoffs, four around each power tube and three on the front-end. The tube socket leads are bent over for mechanical integrity prior to soldering. The preamp PCBs are similar with enough mounting positions over the length of the board. This is actually quite robust provided one takes the normal amount of care during tube insertion and extraction.]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Hammond-chassis-mounting-question Wed, 27 Nov 2019 20:57:12 +0000 FormyxAmps]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Hammond-chassis-mounting-question


For mounting a usual Hammond chassis in a wooden enclosure MArshall-style, I use angled brackets mounted on the chassis using blind rivets where the whole construction is then fastened using bolts and screws, but I've always wanted to have a system that uses cage nuts instead...




How would you mount it? What hardware would you use?






P.S. Couldn't find a more relevant subdir, hope its is ok to post here. ]]>


For mounting a usual Hammond chassis in a wooden enclosure MArshall-style, I use angled brackets mounted on the chassis using blind rivets where the whole construction is then fastened using bolts and screws, but I've always wanted to have a system that uses cage nuts instead...




How would you mount it? What hardware would you use?






P.S. Couldn't find a more relevant subdir, hope its is ok to post here. ]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Pots-What-brands-are-good Mon, 25 Feb 2019 19:53:02 +0000 makinrose]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Pots-What-brands-are-good https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Two-Chassis-Amp-Wiring-between-them Tue, 16 Oct 2018 02:52:04 +0000 NGW]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Two-Chassis-Amp-Wiring-between-them
I am building a large combo for a local guitarist; Push-Pull 2 x 6CA7, 3 x 10" speakers.
Due to the large cab and wanting to keep the pre valves out of the speaker box, I have built it with two aluminium chassis (like some old amps).
One, in a separate compartment above the speakers, housing the Controls, Preamp and the PI. 
The other, on the floor of the cab, housing the Power Supply and Power Amp (the valves are shielded from the speakers).
This two chassis build is new to me and not something that I have done before now.

This build requires approximately 700mm of wiring/cabling between the two chassis for the;
HT for the PI & Pre (PT: 290HX = 356VAC at 420mA), Heaters, Chassis Ground, Speaker Ground, Feedback wire (circuitry is with the PI) and Signal from PI to PA.
I am going to use a relay, via a control panel switch, to switch the wall supply to the PS.

I have some ideas about which way to do this, but I thought I might ask what you blokes recommend, so I can get the best result, with no oscillation or noise and to ensure it is safe.
All suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers, Noel]]>
I am building a large combo for a local guitarist; Push-Pull 2 x 6CA7, 3 x 10" speakers.
Due to the large cab and wanting to keep the pre valves out of the speaker box, I have built it with two aluminium chassis (like some old amps).
One, in a separate compartment above the speakers, housing the Controls, Preamp and the PI. 
The other, on the floor of the cab, housing the Power Supply and Power Amp (the valves are shielded from the speakers).
This two chassis build is new to me and not something that I have done before now.

This build requires approximately 700mm of wiring/cabling between the two chassis for the;
HT for the PI & Pre (PT: 290HX = 356VAC at 420mA), Heaters, Chassis Ground, Speaker Ground, Feedback wire (circuitry is with the PI) and Signal from PI to PA.
I am going to use a relay, via a control panel switch, to switch the wall supply to the PS.

I have some ideas about which way to do this, but I thought I might ask what you blokes recommend, so I can get the best result, with no oscillation or noise and to ensure it is safe.
All suggestions gratefully received.

Cheers, Noel]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Fuse-holder-Fuse-Clips-and-Wiring Sat, 13 Oct 2018 19:29:42 +0000 makinrose]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Fuse-holder-Fuse-Clips-and-Wiring
I've been trying to work out the best method or part to use to mount fuse clips/holder to the eyelet boards so I can add more fusing.  What method do you guys use?  Any recommended fuse holder/clips/fuse blocks that are easy to mount on a eyelet board?   Is it preferable to still have some of the fuses be panel mounted or better to have them all be internal.  Thanks!]]>
I've been trying to work out the best method or part to use to mount fuse clips/holder to the eyelet boards so I can add more fusing.  What method do you guys use?  Any recommended fuse holder/clips/fuse blocks that are easy to mount on a eyelet board?   Is it preferable to still have some of the fuses be panel mounted or better to have them all be internal.  Thanks!]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wire-choice Wed, 22 Aug 2018 19:37:50 +0000 K O'Connor]]> https://theultimatetone.com/Thread-Wire-choice
When wiring a guitar amp, we have many choices about the wire, so how do we make sure we get the right stuff?

Wire has a gauge or thickness, denoted by a number: the smaller the number the fatter the wire. Gauge ONLY determines current capacity, and vice versa.

Insulation type can be cloth, PVC or Teflon, although there are some other poly names to confuse us - haha. Generally, PVC-insulated wire is the norm. Teflon is thinner and requires special wire strippers, so it can be expensive overall. Cloth is purely aesthetic and usually has a plastic inner layer to provide the actual insulation. Vintage restorationists prefer cloth-covered wire to maintain a vintage look, but the down-side is that most cloth wire is solid.

The insulation type determines the voltage capability of the wire. The cheapest wire will be rated at 300V, and 600V and 1kV ratings are available. In general, the 300V wire is good enough for most assemblies since the ratings are actually AC volts, so "300V" means 420V peak or DC. We are not concerned with the heating equivalnce between RMS-AC and DC; rather, the maximum voltage withstand capability.

Stranded-core wire is made up of many thin strands wound together forming a flexible overall wire. Solid-core wire is just that: one solid strand of wire. It is easily bent and holds its shape, which is why some amp builders prefer it. However, this same characteristic can make it more microphonic, too. We generally recommend stranded wire for all applications other than for buss wire on hand-wired cards.

TUT3 Chapter 3 discusses wire selection and wiring practice in detail.

Have fun]]>
When wiring a guitar amp, we have many choices about the wire, so how do we make sure we get the right stuff?

Wire has a gauge or thickness, denoted by a number: the smaller the number the fatter the wire. Gauge ONLY determines current capacity, and vice versa.

Insulation type can be cloth, PVC or Teflon, although there are some other poly names to confuse us - haha. Generally, PVC-insulated wire is the norm. Teflon is thinner and requires special wire strippers, so it can be expensive overall. Cloth is purely aesthetic and usually has a plastic inner layer to provide the actual insulation. Vintage restorationists prefer cloth-covered wire to maintain a vintage look, but the down-side is that most cloth wire is solid.

The insulation type determines the voltage capability of the wire. The cheapest wire will be rated at 300V, and 600V and 1kV ratings are available. In general, the 300V wire is good enough for most assemblies since the ratings are actually AC volts, so "300V" means 420V peak or DC. We are not concerned with the heating equivalnce between RMS-AC and DC; rather, the maximum voltage withstand capability.

Stranded-core wire is made up of many thin strands wound together forming a flexible overall wire. Solid-core wire is just that: one solid strand of wire. It is easily bent and holds its shape, which is why some amp builders prefer it. However, this same characteristic can make it more microphonic, too. We generally recommend stranded wire for all applications other than for buss wire on hand-wired cards.

TUT3 Chapter 3 discusses wire selection and wiring practice in detail.

Have fun]]>