Hope is all right to post here.
Guitar input jack, fitting in a 0.118 inch chassis. All I can find is the Switchcraft, S1029 which won't do.
Is there anything available?
Cheers.
Why is that washer no good? Maybe yo should say what jack you are using.
The shoulder part seems wimpy but I think it does not have to be the same thickness as the chassis to do it its job. Others probably know better. The washer part is kinda thick and could eat some threads on the jack.
Keystone offers two nearly identical fiber washers, the only difference being the overall diameter of 0.75" or 0.625". They are the 3241 and 3069, respectively. Both are like the Switchcraft part in that the shoulder is only 0.032" high and the washer is 0.063" thick.
Where the open-frame Switchcraft jacks can provide a very long service life, they do have their flaws. The main one is the fact the entire "sandwich" of the jack contacts and insulators is held together by a single crimp. This crimp has to resist the twisting forces of tightening the jack and nut during installation, and remain tight over the life of the jack with countless insertions and extractions of the plug end.
Unless the chassis is very thin, you have to use the long-bushing versions of the jack to have space for the insulating washers. On my older amps I used plastic dress panels, so one side was taken care of., then a shoulder washer inside. The chassis, dress panel and washer ate up 3/16" of the available thread, and adding a toothed washer another 1/16". I use plastic jacks since switching to PCB-mounted types. I have also just switched to metal dress panels.
If you need an insulated jack, it is best to use a plastic jack with a burly threaded section, such as from Neutrik or Re'an. The Switchcraft plastic jacks use a brittle-seeming thin plastic and the contacts are smaller than on the other brands.
03-05-2024, 06:26 PM (This post was last modified: 03-05-2024, 07:05 PM by ZeusMC.)
(03-05-2024, 05:57 PM)nauta Wrote: Hey Zeus
Why is that washer no good? Maybe yo should say what jack you are using.
The shoulder part seems wimpy but I think it does not have to be the same thickness as the chassis to do it its job. Others probably know better. The washer part is kinda thick and could eat some threads on the jack.
I've started thinking of drilling out an M20 hole and stacking it with 1mm thick nylon washers, something along those lines, um Or could use a Greenlee knock off hole punch, chassis is 3mm aluminium. Switchcraft are fibre washers, just had a quck look can get them, , M10, 10.4 mm Internal, 21 mm External, 1.5 mm thick. Fibre is more compressible than plastic, so that might come into it. Quite late here in UK, am tired, so will have another think about this in the morning, when my mind is more alert and fresh.
Keystone offers two nearly identical fiber washers, the only difference being the overall diameter of 0.75" or 0.625". They are the 3241 and 3069, respectively. Both are like the Switchcraft part in that the shoulder is only 0.032" high and the washer is 0.063" thick.
Where the open-frame Switchcraft jacks can provide a very long service life, they do have their flaws. The main one is the fact the entire "sandwich" of the jack contacts and insulators is held together by a single crimp. This crimp has to resist the twisting forces of tightening the jack and nut during installation, and remain tight over the life of the jack with countless insertions and extractions of the plug end.
Unless the chassis is very thin, you have to use the long-bushing versions of the jack to have space for the insulating washers. On my older amps I used plastic dress panels, so one side was taken care of., then a shoulder washer inside. The chassis, dress panel and washer ate up 3/16" of the available thread, and adding a toothed washer another 1/16". I use plastic jacks since switching to PCB-mounted types. I have also just switched to metal dress panels.
If you need an insulated jack, it is best to use a plastic jack with a burly threaded section, such as from Neutrik or Re'an. The Switchcraft plastic jacks use a brittle-seeming thin plastic and the contacts are smaller than on the other brands.
I had a look at the link and those jacks look a bit on the wimpy side. They are no good for input jacks as they do not have a closed-contact for the tip.
It is really difficult to tell without seeing them in real life and handling them.
Where I used to live, some Hong Kong importers moved in and offered a wide range of electronic parts. Some of it, like most of their jacks and switches, were junk, but other things were good quality. You have to be selective and try not to let price be the final arbiter.
03-06-2024, 06:12 AM (This post was last modified: 03-06-2024, 06:14 AM by ZeusMC.)
(03-05-2024, 08:56 PM)K O'Connor Wrote: Hi Guys
I had a look at the link and those jacks look a bit on the wimpy side. They are no good for input jacks as they do not have a closed-contact for the tip.
It is really difficult to tell without seeing them in real life and handling them.
Where I used to live, some Hong Kong importers moved in and offered a wide range of electronic parts. Some of it, like most of their jacks and switches, were junk, but other things were good quality. You have to be selective and try not to let price be the final arbiter.
Have fun
Won't this Chinese jack, which I have, do the same job as the Switchcraft jack? looks very much the same, see attached photos?
I had a look at the link and those jacks look a bit on the wimpy side. They are no good for input jacks as they do not have a closed-contact for the tip.
It is really difficult to tell without seeing them in real life and handling them.
Where I used to live, some Hong Kong importers moved in and offered a wide range of electronic parts. Some of it, like most of their jacks and switches, were junk, but other things were good quality. You have to be selective and try not to let price be the final arbiter.
Yes, the jacks are the same basic shape, but the wafer material, thickness of the metal and metal finish can be different and one will last longer than the other. It takes the same time and effort to install either, but which one will need replacing or need its spring contacts retensioned first?
Frankly, many of Switchcraft's products are not that great because of the finish they choose. This is especially problematic on their switches - ironic since that is part of their name and should be what they are really good at Left on the shelf or in a bin exposed to air the terminals corrode and look quite ugly. They need thorough sanding before you can solder to them. The 1/4" jacks seem to have a better plating and have a long shelf life.
One of the reviews of the stereo form of the linked Aliexpress jack said that the ring contact was poorly aligned and had to be reshaped. There can be a problem sometimes if metric/inch dimensions are used that are not exactly equivalent.
So, you just have to take a chance and get the jacks in hand and maybe try them in your amp to know if they work okay and for how long.
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