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05-09-2024, 11:32 AM
Hi Guys
The 1715 staking tool is the correct one for $44 Keystone eyelets. There are three ways to use it. In all cases, the eyelet is inserted into a 1/8" (3mm) hole with the large roll on the top side of the card. The card is placed upside down on a hard metal surface - not wood or plastic.
1 - Hammer: Holding the tool perfectly vertical over the eyelet will almost always result in a split eyelet. You have to gently swivel and roll the end of the tool over the rim of the eyelet while GENTLY tapping it with the hammer. The eyelet is small and the hammer should be relatively light itself.
2 - Drill press: Secure the tool in the chuck of the drill press. Use the chuck key in more than one of the tightening holes to assure that the tool is locked in as well as possible. Shift the drill press table so the eyelet to be pressed is not over the center hole; rather, that it backs onto the solid part of the table. use the drill press lever to lower the tool onto the eyelet and give a surge or two to get more force until the roll is complete. personally, I never found this method to work too well.
3 - Arbor press: This is the best method if you can find a 1-ron press for a reasonable price - and of course, it is difficult to justify this purchase unless you are going to install A LOT of eyelets and/or can use the press for other things. One other use is to swage in captive nuts for chassis covers. The key to using the arbor press properly is to have a secure mounting of the tool. Depending on how large the hole is in the press this will be an issue or not, but it may take some time to get this lined up correctly. I was very lucky to have a customer who is a machinist, who copied the end of the 1715 onto a piece of round-bar that fit snugly into the arbor press. Using the proper size hole for the eyelets, I could load a section of eyelets into the card, flip it just go press press press ... and every roll was perfect and quick.
Regarding tight layouts: While still doing eyelet card construction, my layouts were getting a bit crazy and I had to resort to a smaller eyelet for some sections. Of course, that meant setting up a second arbor press. Inserting components and adding wires had to be planned out so I could work from one end of the card to the other, say, so as not to burn any components.
Tight eyelet layouts are a great reason to use Teflon insulated wire. You do not have to worry about melting the insulation with the soldering iron AND the overall size of the wire is smaller than with PVC insulation.
Fuse holders on eyelet cards: I have a drawer full of the open-style fuse clips as shown in the pics taken by Physics. Mine were for full-size fuses and needed four eyelets. because of the clips themselves, the spacing had to be a bit generous. The pins that go into the eyelets need to be bent prior to soldering to provide mechanical resistance to fuse extraction forces.
Fuse holders designed for PCBs tend to be more compact in some regards, and are mostly fully insulated all around. This allows placing them up against each other with no worries of shorting to each other. The pins only need a single eyelet, which should be placed so the pin can catch the side of the eyelet leaving most of the opening available outside of the fuse holder footprint.
Don't forget to add a bleeder resistor across each of the caps in the voltage doubler. This helps for turn-off safety and also assures voltage sharing.
Have fun
The 1715 staking tool is the correct one for $44 Keystone eyelets. There are three ways to use it. In all cases, the eyelet is inserted into a 1/8" (3mm) hole with the large roll on the top side of the card. The card is placed upside down on a hard metal surface - not wood or plastic.
1 - Hammer: Holding the tool perfectly vertical over the eyelet will almost always result in a split eyelet. You have to gently swivel and roll the end of the tool over the rim of the eyelet while GENTLY tapping it with the hammer. The eyelet is small and the hammer should be relatively light itself.
2 - Drill press: Secure the tool in the chuck of the drill press. Use the chuck key in more than one of the tightening holes to assure that the tool is locked in as well as possible. Shift the drill press table so the eyelet to be pressed is not over the center hole; rather, that it backs onto the solid part of the table. use the drill press lever to lower the tool onto the eyelet and give a surge or two to get more force until the roll is complete. personally, I never found this method to work too well.
3 - Arbor press: This is the best method if you can find a 1-ron press for a reasonable price - and of course, it is difficult to justify this purchase unless you are going to install A LOT of eyelets and/or can use the press for other things. One other use is to swage in captive nuts for chassis covers. The key to using the arbor press properly is to have a secure mounting of the tool. Depending on how large the hole is in the press this will be an issue or not, but it may take some time to get this lined up correctly. I was very lucky to have a customer who is a machinist, who copied the end of the 1715 onto a piece of round-bar that fit snugly into the arbor press. Using the proper size hole for the eyelets, I could load a section of eyelets into the card, flip it just go press press press ... and every roll was perfect and quick.
Regarding tight layouts: While still doing eyelet card construction, my layouts were getting a bit crazy and I had to resort to a smaller eyelet for some sections. Of course, that meant setting up a second arbor press. Inserting components and adding wires had to be planned out so I could work from one end of the card to the other, say, so as not to burn any components.
Tight eyelet layouts are a great reason to use Teflon insulated wire. You do not have to worry about melting the insulation with the soldering iron AND the overall size of the wire is smaller than with PVC insulation.
Fuse holders on eyelet cards: I have a drawer full of the open-style fuse clips as shown in the pics taken by Physics. Mine were for full-size fuses and needed four eyelets. because of the clips themselves, the spacing had to be a bit generous. The pins that go into the eyelets need to be bent prior to soldering to provide mechanical resistance to fuse extraction forces.
Fuse holders designed for PCBs tend to be more compact in some regards, and are mostly fully insulated all around. This allows placing them up against each other with no worries of shorting to each other. The pins only need a single eyelet, which should be placed so the pin can catch the side of the eyelet leaving most of the opening available outside of the fuse holder footprint.
Don't forget to add a bleeder resistor across each of the caps in the voltage doubler. This helps for turn-off safety and also assures voltage sharing.
Have fun
