Bogen CHB-20A Rebuild

[physics]

Thanks for all the info!

I did try using a light hammer and swiveling, and was unable to get a good roll. Sounds like it was user error. Perhaps I was tapping too hard. I was also using a flat patch of cement at that point in time instead of the sheet of 16 gauge steel I picked up a few days ago, so maybe that didn't help either. Either way, I think the hammer method will likely be too time consuming for the amount of projects I have scheduled, so I'll shelve that for latter.

Regarding the arbor press method, I think what I'm currently using is an arbor press. Probably a less than ideal one? It's labeled as a PanaPress, and from my research is likely a 1/4 ton press. There is play in the ram, I can wiggle it enough for the end to move a few millimeters when it's fully extended down to the circuit card. Is that normal, or is that effectively making my tool insecurely mounted? The tool itself is in a 1/4" hole in the end of the ram, though it doesn't sit normal to the ram face last I checked. The hole isn't drilled/reamed deep enough for the tool to sit in very far and it gets narrower at around 1/2" into the ram so the tool can't go all the way in, which I figure is part of why the tool isn't normal to the face. It also means the tool gets wedged snugly inside the hole which makes for a fun time getting it out... I'm the guy who tried drilling the hole out larger so don't blame PanaPress for the poor drill job. I stopped after my drill bits stopped having any visible effect. Perhaps dulled? I kept them flushed with oil, but maybe that wasn't enough. Also, the press doesn't have those fine adjust screws for the ram that I see some other presses have, so I can't remove the play that way.

Using said press with a steel block under the eyelet, the eyelets still came out poorly. Mostly folding over or collapsing. I'm not certain which part of the setup is the issue. Based on what you said I'm thinking either the play in the ram (necessitating a new press? shims?) or the not-quite-normal mounting of the tool (possibly fixable?).

Anyhow, there are some respectably priced used presses near me, including a used Dake, which I hear is a good brand, so I'll I'm going to look into those, see if I can try them out before buying to see if a different press works better. There are some cheap harbor freight presses too, but trusting those seems like a bad idea.

Thanks for mentioning the PCB fuse holders. Initially I didn't see any rated for above 250VAC so I avoided that style, but some more finangling with digikey revealed some rated for 600V(DC?) so that should help with spacing. No multi-circuit high voltage fuse blocks so far though, I'll have to keep looking if I want those instead of individual fuse blocks. I did try to space the eyelets to just catch the edge of the pin this time, but I didn't use calipers to mark things out so they came out a bit too close together as I think the picture shows, with the fuse holder overhanging the eyelet a little. Next I'll use calipers.

Totally forgot about the bleeder resistors when I was assembling this, despite planning for them earlier. Two more things to figure out how to cram into that space, or perhaps install two more eyelets and some jumper wire. Teflon may be a nice idea in the future, I'll have to look into costs.

Thanks for all the info! I'm gonna go try the arbor press only (no hammer & center punch) with the eyelets once more just in case I missed something.