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06-03-2023, 11:10 AM
Hi Guys
On most pots the connection to the external world is via a solder lug or PCB compatible pin which is riveted to the phenolic substrate of the pot. This rivet is usually in the shape of an eyelet with a hole through the middle. It is NOT meant to be a solder point.
Just as with other components, overheating the terminals of a pot can damage it.
In the case of the bias pot wiring as described in the "BMK2 used for cathode-bias" thread, there is a cap and a resistor in parallel with two of the pot terminals, plus a connection to other components off each. It makes the most sense to attach the resistor to the pot terminals first, as it is unlikely that the resistor will ever need replacing. Leave the leads long-ish. Attach the wires and cap leads to the resistor leads, but hook these and squeeze them all prior to soldering, so that soldering will be one step.
On most pots the connection to the external world is via a solder lug or PCB compatible pin which is riveted to the phenolic substrate of the pot. This rivet is usually in the shape of an eyelet with a hole through the middle. It is NOT meant to be a solder point.
Just as with other components, overheating the terminals of a pot can damage it.
In the case of the bias pot wiring as described in the "BMK2 used for cathode-bias" thread, there is a cap and a resistor in parallel with two of the pot terminals, plus a connection to other components off each. It makes the most sense to attach the resistor to the pot terminals first, as it is unlikely that the resistor will ever need replacing. Leave the leads long-ish. Attach the wires and cap leads to the resistor leads, but hook these and squeeze them all prior to soldering, so that soldering will be one step.
