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06-11-2024, 04:59 PM
Hi Guys
Frankly, I've never seen anyone have so much trouble installing eyelets.
As stated in my posts above and by Keystone:
A proper hole size for the eyelet is very important.
Proper alignment of the staking tool with the eyelet is paramount.
You have a drill press now, so you should be able to have proper holes that have square edges and that are round. It seems crazy to highlight roundness when using a rotary drill bit, but the press should eliminate the hand-held wobble of the drill, leaving only the wobble of a poorly mounted chuck in the mandrel of the drill press as an error source.
As you found, the eyelets will stay in the drilled holes and not fall out when you flip the card over.
The alignment of the eyelet with the tool is a bit of you moving the card into place and the tool participating - but mostly it is you. It comes down to a little bit of practice and then it is second-nature.
Note that Keystone says to use "light pressure".
I just had a look at how a #44 eyelet sits on the 1715 tool. The eyelet sits on the cone about 1mm or so up from the circular groove. The eyelet sits similarly on the tool I had made, but the cone is taller and the groove is a touch wider. Using either one just by hand makes a perfect roll in a 1/8" hole.
One other issue would be the card thickness. I use 1/16" stock. There are longer eyelets for thicker material and shorter ones for thinner. There seems to be some missing information regarding how much of the eyelet shank should protrude through the material? I thought there used to be some.
You mention your Cambion press - is it just a brand of arbor press? A few decades ago, one of the suppliers in Toronto carried Manu-Press, which was a whole line including a press that did not look anywhere near as sturdy as the arbor press you have, plus a bunch of dies and holders. It seemed more suited to pressing cheese
Frankly, I've never seen anyone have so much trouble installing eyelets.
As stated in my posts above and by Keystone:
A proper hole size for the eyelet is very important.
Proper alignment of the staking tool with the eyelet is paramount.
You have a drill press now, so you should be able to have proper holes that have square edges and that are round. It seems crazy to highlight roundness when using a rotary drill bit, but the press should eliminate the hand-held wobble of the drill, leaving only the wobble of a poorly mounted chuck in the mandrel of the drill press as an error source.
As you found, the eyelets will stay in the drilled holes and not fall out when you flip the card over.
The alignment of the eyelet with the tool is a bit of you moving the card into place and the tool participating - but mostly it is you. It comes down to a little bit of practice and then it is second-nature.
Note that Keystone says to use "light pressure".
I just had a look at how a #44 eyelet sits on the 1715 tool. The eyelet sits on the cone about 1mm or so up from the circular groove. The eyelet sits similarly on the tool I had made, but the cone is taller and the groove is a touch wider. Using either one just by hand makes a perfect roll in a 1/8" hole.
One other issue would be the card thickness. I use 1/16" stock. There are longer eyelets for thicker material and shorter ones for thinner. There seems to be some missing information regarding how much of the eyelet shank should protrude through the material? I thought there used to be some.
You mention your Cambion press - is it just a brand of arbor press? A few decades ago, one of the suppliers in Toronto carried Manu-Press, which was a whole line including a press that did not look anywhere near as sturdy as the arbor press you have, plus a bunch of dies and holders. It seemed more suited to pressing cheese
