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06-11-2024, 08:43 PM
Hi Guys
You cannot test your setup without using real cards.
The Cambion and any setup that requires a bottom holder is not the right approach for eyeleting a card - it may be okay when setting eyelets into floppy material, but not for a card.
Most arbor presses come with a flat thick steel bed which is preferably polished so the eyelet card can slide freely on it. The area of the bed should be about 4-5" deep and wider than the base of the press. There are metal supply places that cater to small builders and hobbyists, carrying every type and shape of metal in appropriately sized pieces and lengths. They will usually cut stuff to size if needed.
The arbor press will definitely work better bolted to a sturdy table even though you do not have to apply high force to install eyelets.
Regarding the card layout: have you seen the inside of an old Fender? The layout is designed for the parts to be used, arranged in now classic shapes that make recognising the circuitry very easy. The point is really to use the space wisely with a minimum of jumpers on the card. Generic cards with two or three rows of eyelets or turrets makes tracing and repairs much more difficult later even though it looks neat.
You cannot test your setup without using real cards.
The Cambion and any setup that requires a bottom holder is not the right approach for eyeleting a card - it may be okay when setting eyelets into floppy material, but not for a card.
Most arbor presses come with a flat thick steel bed which is preferably polished so the eyelet card can slide freely on it. The area of the bed should be about 4-5" deep and wider than the base of the press. There are metal supply places that cater to small builders and hobbyists, carrying every type and shape of metal in appropriately sized pieces and lengths. They will usually cut stuff to size if needed.
The arbor press will definitely work better bolted to a sturdy table even though you do not have to apply high force to install eyelets.
Regarding the card layout: have you seen the inside of an old Fender? The layout is designed for the parts to be used, arranged in now classic shapes that make recognising the circuitry very easy. The point is really to use the space wisely with a minimum of jumpers on the card. Generic cards with two or three rows of eyelets or turrets makes tracing and repairs much more difficult later even though it looks neat.
